Sonoma Cellar

$ $ $

There’s apparently an unwritten law that every casino-hotel, be it on the Strip or in the suburbs, has to have a steakhouse. Usually it’s the resort’s top restaurant, and that’s definitely the case with Sonoma Cellar at Sunset Station. The original time-proven (but also time-worn) decor that honored Latin classicism has been lightened and brightened to evoke the sunny Mediterranean, through copious use of gray-veined stone. The menu mainly hews to steakhouse classics.

That means starters such as the chilled Seafood Jackpot (priced per person), or a shrimp cocktail, beef tartare or bowl of silken lobster bisque or mellow French onion soup. Seafood’s represented here, in the form of salmon, scallops, lobster or King crab legs. Chicken and lamb are also available.

But fans like longtime Review-Journal restaurant critic (and Henderson resident) Heidi Knapp Rinella go to a steakhouse mainly for the steaks. Sonoma has a wide selection: boneless, bone-in, prime and grass-fed. And there are plenty of familiar steakhouse sides to accompany the beef.

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